My E Revo Brushless Edition Build

[mistercrash]

I used this simple little thing to punch holes in paper to punch the holes for the tie wraps.



I used a Sharpie to color the edges for a finishing touch.



Here they are installed, they look kinda cool, like leather mud flaps.

[crashngo]

sweet idea on the flaps
you should talk to traxxas and sell them some of your ideas or better yet get on the traxxas payroll

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by crashngo

sweet idea on the flaps
you should talk to traxxas and sell them some of your ideas or better yet get on the traxxas payroll

I think they like to take whatever they need from people and not pay for it.

[revo guy]

hi mistercrash, how long are the shafts for the cd?

[thrashmetal]

hey ray,

i could have used those mudflaps this weekend at the glorcs race at hardcore. the track was pretty muddy on saturday during the qualifiers. it took me quite a while to clean my e-revo once nighttime came.

i ended up qualifiying 3rd in the a main with bob flegal qualifying first in his e-revo brushless.
the main was 20 minutes and bob ended up taking the win. i had a ball end on one of my front shocks come off during the warm up and by the time my pit guy got me back on the track i was already 2 laps down. after some more big jumps it came off again and then so did my driveshaft.

im going to install a large washer over the ball ends on all the shocks so that they wont come off again .

[madmaxx]

hey Thrash good to hear you were havin' a good time!

i had problem's with the rod end's on my rear shock's (nitro version) and i have since switched to aluminum one's from RD racing (installed on all 4 corner's) and they are golden!

you guy's gotta get some local race info up for us rookies so that we can come n' check it out! maybe even turn a few lap's

as usual nice tip there Mr.C! what kind of paper did ya use?

[mistercrash]

I edited my post about the Thunder Tiger CD with a pic of the Traxxas shafts that show the dimension of both. Part numbers are TRA5415 and TRA5416. The front shaft has to be 1.070 inch from end to end. The rear shaft has to be 1.600 inch from end to end.

I used a simple piece of paper to print the templates.

[mistercrash]

One thing that I haven't discussed in this thread is weight. The total weight of the truck. Many of the parts used on the ERBE are from the nitro 3.3 version. So originally, those parts were designed for a truck that weighs 10 pounds or less. A RTR ERBE with beadlocks and a couple 4S lipos in parallel can weigh much more than 10 pounds which I think can put a lot of strain on many components that came from the 3.3. So how much does your ERBE or conversion weigh? It would be cool to see if there is a big difference between conversions and ERBEs, or if there are big differences between ERBEs and ERBEs or conversions and conversions. To seriously compare the weight of different trucks, I say to weight them without tires/wheels and without batteries because there are huge differences in weights of tires, wheels and batteries. So take off the batteries, the wheels, put back the nuts, body and body clips on and weigh the truck.

Here's the weight of my ERBE:

3352 grams or 7.39 pounds.

[jeje3012]

Hi MisterCrash,
I was wondering what was the max temperature of your packs after a hard run ?
I have recently ordered by hobby King 4 zippy flightmax 2S1P 5000mah 20c, and after a hard run they reach 50 °C - 120 °F. ( Outside temperature 27 °C - 80 °F)
My ratio is 20/65.
I have 2S2P 5600mah 28c battery packs too and the max temperature at the end of a hard run is nearly the same 45 °C - 113 °F. ( Outside temperature 27 °C - 80 °F)
So am i right to say that more your batteries have high C Rate, less they will get warm ?
In parrallel of your tests, don't you think the temperature at the end of the run can help to get another idea of which C rate is a battery ?
I think So.

I will weight my 2 Revo soon (Nitro and Electric).

Hope you will understand all that i wrote, because i think in French and Write in English ...

PS : Try the nicotine patch, it helps very well to give up with smoking....

[mistercrash]

I am not an expert on batteries but I agree that the higher the C rating, the stronger the battery is and the lower the temp will be. The highest temps I ever had was 114 on my batteries. If you don't count the time I ran two 5S packs in series by mistake for a total of 10S Those packs were hot, but they still work and they didn't puff. I was lucky. Lipo temps can safely go up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, if you are worried about reaching 120, you could try a very slightly lower gearing like 62/19 or 56/17. They are about 1 mph less on top speed than what you run now. It might help. But there are other variables to consider like the surface you are running on, tires and wheels you are using. Make sure absolutely nothing is binding in your drive train, it will make your system heat up. Check your bearings to make sure none are ceased and things like that.