My E Revo Brushless Edition Build

[mistercrash]

So here it is for anyone who is interested in this, the abbreviated and cleaned up version of my thread on the Traxxas forum.

First thing I did before even trying it was to take the TQ transmitter and receiver and install that in my son's Mini T. Then I installed my DX3R receiver, an ACE single servo, Proline steering arm and EC3 connectors. I also made a custom antenna tube.

The pics:


And after it's first run on the street and grass.




Here's my ERBE 8 hours after I got it. I just can never leave well enough alone.

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But I guess it's good to check everything out because after only one 12 minute run, one of my diffs, the front one sprung a leak. And there were a couple of screws that were stripped with the plastic of the chassis melted on the threads.



6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE

Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber.



Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor.



I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore.

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And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.



An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.



The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.



Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.

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LST2 DIFFS

The power of the MMM on 6S apparently shredded a few of the stock diffs so I decided to follow Lincpimp’s lead on his project of putting LST diffs in a Revo.

The output shafts are Revo stub axles with the threaded part cut off .



I removed as much material from the outside of the LST2 diff casings as I could so that they would fit inside the Revo bulkheads. Then I painted them black to make them look good.



I trimmed the stops under the chassis for the diffs to fit.

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I will use Traxxas Summit shafts all around this ERBE. I also want them for the center shafts. I put two set screws on either end of each shafts with blue Locktite.

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8th SCALE CENTER DIFF

The 8th scale center diff in a Revo all started with a guy naming himself ‘’CowboyRay’’. He made an 8th scale CD using a Thunder Tiger TTR S3 buggy center differential. His design required extensive machining to be done and was financially out of reach of many. Some people tried to take over this design and tried to market this CD but the financial aspect was a problem again. It was just very expensive to produce and the sale price was high. Cowboy made and sold a few hundreds of them and then stopped when Traxxas came out with their own version of a center differential with rear brake. Then I saw on the RC Monster forum a guy named ‘’sjcrss’’ made an 8th scale center differential with parts of an Ofna Hyper 7 buggy CD that did not require the help of a machinist or machining equipment. Having at least a drill press or access to one helps a lot though. The hardest part of making this CD is definitely making M3X.5 threads in hardened steel.
So I went with sjcrss’ idea of using the hardened steel spur gear as the diff cap and CowboyRay’s idea of using Thunder Tiger parts. I modified the ERBE’s output gear TRA3984X and I modified these two parts, TRA5415 and TRA5416. They are the output shafts for the Revo 3.3 center diff.

The Thunder Tiger spur gear PD1893

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The Traxxas TRA3984X output gear


The Traxxas TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts



The Thuder tiger diff parts, diff case PD1897, diff gear set PD1895

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The modification done to the Thunder Tiger PD1897 diff case



The final product

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ZERO SLOP 17 MM OFNA ADAPTERS

The Ofna adapters are tough and cheap. The Traxxas adapters are very similar except for the splines. Both of them have slop that gets worse with time because they get grinded by the threads of the stub axles. There are other systems out there that require the use of 8 mm stub axles or stub axles with no threads but they end up being expensive, although they are very good. Also there are cheaper styles that work great but I started with Ofna before any other systems came out and with the modifications I did, they have been working so well that I don’t see why I should change anything.

GETTING RID OF THE SLOP

[mistercrash]